What has nearly a century of totalitar-ianism done to a grand and cultured city only now awaking from its nightmare, shaking its head to clear it.
Yes, it's in Europe. Barely, the ambiance a fascinating blend of modem and ancient, of secular and Muslin. And the food irresistible to me.
We were only passing through, we thought. Turns out we couldn't: too quaint, too... well, different. We manage our first test of trip reprogramming.
Lucky enough now not to have to report to work on any given Monday morning, we decide to explore Europe in leisurely fashion.